Long ago, we are talking June, I was asked to maybe blog about painting tips since I was painting my boys' room.
Yesterday I revisited painting- my youngest thought the blue (Smokescreen) was too light- of course he seriously thought I should paint Steelers' colors- black and gold- but fortunately I don't listen to his ideas too often. Since Smokescreen wasn't "man cave" enough for them, I got the next darker color- Feldspar- for one wall. Smokescreen seems darker and grayer in the areas that are multiple walls of the color, like their dormer area, or areas that get little natural lighting- so it was really only the one wall opposite of the stairs that "offended" them. So yesterday I repainted that one wall which gave me the opportunity to take some photos and write my blog on my own personal painting tips.
The most important thing is to have the right tools- it makes the job go much faster and better. I actually saw a painting expert say that it's more important to buy a good brush than it is to buy expensive paint. My tools of the trade.
1. Roller Pan- come in metal and plastic- doesn't matter which you use.
2. Roller Pan Liners- These can be purchased for between 50 cents and about $1-- so worth it when it comes to clean up time. Instead of having to wash out the roller pan, just toss this away after the remaining paint has dried. It also makes switching to another color quick and easy.
3. Cup or container for "cutting in" paint. When edging and doing corners- it's much easier using a container like this instead of going to roller pan. Especially when on a ladder, one can hold this on one hand, brush in other and quickly edge without going up and down- unless you want the added exercise but that comes with more drips.
4. Rollers- depending on the size of the painting job, you may want to spend a little extra on this item to get a handle that feels comfortable in your hand. The cheap handles often are skinnier and not very ergonomically correct- which can mean hand craps after a big job. I've purchased lengthening handles but find that these often malfunction- the handle collapses into itself and doesn't stay in position you wanted- thus why the one I own has tape. LOL If you need the additional length, it's probably better to just use a screw in extension pole IMHO. The roller covers I do not spend too much on- but I wouldn't recommend el cheapos (like bargain places like Dollar Tree) because these often shed a lot. The nap of the roller needed depends on the surface you are painting- smoother surfaces need less nap, whereas something like stucco needs a longer nap so the roller will get paint into the crevasses. Recently I bought a small skinny nap roller (about 4 inches in length and much smaller diameter) and have found this exceeding handy. I actually used just this to paint the single wall yesterday. Smaller rollers let you get into tight spaces like above the window in my own example and gives you better control around places like outlets. I also like this smaller roller because the one end is curved and napped- so it fills in tighter to corners than a traditional roller.
5. Paint pad- I don't use this for every paint job but find it very quick and easy to use (without taping) when edging crown moulding, baseboards and around windows and door jams. The trick with this item is never dip pad in paint, instead apply paint to pad with edging brush (still needed to get deep into corners) leaving about 1/4 inch from the guarded edge with no paint- this prevents seepage onto moulding and such. When using this technique- it's a quick back and forth motion along the moulding and it's edged.
6. Brush- spend money on this. A good brush can be cleaned and used repeatedly. I like 1 1/2 inch slanted size brush for my edging. Cheap brushes have too stiff bristles that leave marks- and often bristles behind too. Get the brush recommended for the type of paint you are using.
7. Detail (from art store) brush. When doing the boys' room I was doing multiple colors and sometimes had only a few inches of wall that was exposed- so this kind of brush came in exceedingly handy since even my regular brush was too bulky in this situation. I also found it wonderful to use when painting their bathroom with the pedestal sink plumbing and the mirror (which is glued to wall)
8. Painter's tape- this is a low adhesive tape, so it comes back off without tearing off paint. If I have both crown moulding and baseboards, I may not need tape but tight areas, like small space between door jam and corner, taping off the woodwork makes it easy to just slap paint into the corner. I also use to cover around wall light edges (like in bathrooms) and plumbing that you can't really remove. It's crucial for painting techniques like using multiple color- especially if doing sponging or other faux finishes because you can't get tight into corners without using the tape to protect the other walls.
9. Screw driver- necessary to remove switch plate covers and outlet covers. Can also be used to open paint can.
10. Outlet Safety Covers- like the ones you use to baby proof the house. After removing outlet covers, pop these into the outlets- the outlets will be covered and no "oops" of getting paint on the outlet. Worth it!! I actually still keep these around for all my painting jobs.
11. Can opening tool- this is one I bought but you can use a screw driver or like yesterday, the paint store gave me a little can opener for free.
12. Music-- paint is much more fun when you are rocking to songs you like
* Tarp for floor. I really recommend this paper on top, plastic on the bottom blue one like in this photo- The paper kind of absorbs small spills- so doesn't run right off- yet the plastic keeps from seeping through. This one also stays in place better than the thin plastic ones.
*Ladder- size depends on job- I could reach the top of this wall with just a two step one.
*A measuring cup is often handy to scoop out paint into edging container rather than taking the chance of pouring into it.
*Plastic Zip Lock bag for outlet covers and switch plate covers and the screws while painting- nothing gets lost.
*Plastic wrap- wrap brush and roller with it when taking a break or in between coats to prevent drying out. Cover roller pan to prevent drying out in between coats if doing multiple coats in one day. If stopping for the day, put the wrapped brush and roller cover in the freezer. Take out a little before starting the next day's work.
*Rags- for the occasional "oops"
*Paint clothes- I have old clothes that are my painting clothes- I have various paint colors, stain and other stuff on them but I don't care since I'm not ruining anything after the first spot.
*Flip flops- I like to wear these while painting because if I should step in a drip, I can just carefully walk off the tarp in my bare feet rather than accidentally track paint all over.
Once you've gotten your supplies together it's time to pick out the paint. Usually the more expensive paint isn't worth it- any reputable brand will do ( I wouldn't recommend Big Lots or bargain basement paints) The finish is important- flat is fine for a household of adults but is nearly impossible to clean- so anyone with kids- go for an eggshell. Trust me, kids touch the walls- even after years of yelling not to touch the walls and making my kids scrub the walls- I still found handprints in the boys' room after only a couple of months. Scrubbable paint is a must if you have kids. Also in high humidity areas (kitchen and bath) no flat paint. NEVER buy ceiling paint- it's like white chalk water= buy flat white paint base and ask them to add extra white to it- tell them you are using on ceiling. Ceiling paint sucks!!!
Picking your color- believe it or not- ANY color (blue, red, yellow) etc will work IF you follow this tip- grab all the color swatches in the color category you want--- like all the blues- put them in order (usually the paint store has them numbered) and pick the color in the middle- it will be the neutral. If you look at the blue I picked out, it is definitely gray toned which makes it very livable even for those who are afraid of color. Also go a bit lighter- once the color is on all the walls, it starts bouncing off of itself and the color gets more vibrant- so going lighter usually combats this issue. Flooring color will affect wall color- our Cincinnati home had "country blue" carpet and the living room was painted blue. We repainted and hubby kept thinking they had painted the ceiling blue- all because of the carpet- also when I learned that ceiling paint is garbage. So if flooring color is strong- consider how it will effect the paint color you want. To combat the blue carpet, I chose a slightly yellow off white color. The wall color in my master bedroom is a bit of a greenish yellow, so I opted for reds to counteract the green. It's kind of like concealer (makeup)- choose the color opposite of the color you are trying to combat.
I used to watch Christopher Lowell's show all the time and he had the "layers" of decorating. Layer #1 & 2 were the most expensive things to change- flooring and large furniture- so he recommended going solid and more neutral there. Then you bring in trendy colors with paint and accessories like pillows- because they are less expensive to change. Painting dramatically changes a room for very little money if you do the painting yourself.
Actually Painting-
1. Move all furniture away from walls. Remove from room if not too big of a PITA. Remove things hanging from walls.
2. Patch any holes with spackle- sand when dry.
3. Vacuum, baseboards especially, to prevent brush/roller from getting dust and trapping in paint. Wash walls with Sodium Tri-phosphate if they are really greasy and dirty. I usually only use Murphy's oil soap to remove the worst of the handprints.
4. Remove outlet and switch plate covers- put in ziplock bag so you don't lose screws. (If doing a bathroom- remove towel holders, TP holder, etc.)
5. Tape- if in a very tight space, tape door jam or other areas. If doing different colors on adjoining walls, tape at corner on wall that you aren't painting) tape along window casings, door jams, ceiling, and baseboard. If using the paint pad these aren't necessary unless there is no moulding at the ceiling. Try to really get the tape edges down flat- this will allow less seepage. I usually do 2-3 ft strips at a time, overlapping over the previous tape.
6. Pour into roller pan- don't pour more than the sunken area full. Never paint right out of the can- you want to pour a little into another container rather than contaminate the paint. Plus the paint will get dried out- so a little into another container is the way to go. Pour (or scoop) some into edging container- once again a little is better so paint doesn't dry out and also prevents huge spills.
7. Cut in with brush at corners, along taped in areas- do about 3-4 ft width at a time. If you haven't taped you can edge along baseboard and moulding quickly with a paint pad. Apply paint with a brush about 1/4 inch from guarded edge of paint pad. Put guarded edge up against the moulding/baseboard and slide along. The 1/4 inch gap keeps too much paint from seeping out beyond the guard. If you taped, apply paint with a brush into corners. If free edging (no tape) dip slanted brush into paint about 1/2 an inch. wipe off excess on side of container- trying to make brush edge more pointed- carefully place brush right at edge of area you want to paint and slowly drag along. This takes a steady hand so I recommend taping or a paint pad when possible. Only do about 3-4 ft widths so you can roll paint on still wet edges.
8. Roll- saturate roller by dipping in paint and then rolling on angled area. Should be fairly evenly saturated without being dripping with paint. Apply to wall in a W, M, N motion.
Then go back over to even out- starting at same edge (more paint there) and working back over. Don't over work the paint- you can actually start removing paint by overworking it. Reload and apply to area next to it. Try to keep a wet edge on the areas you are working on. Once you've filled in the area you've already edged, go back and edge another 3-4 ft. swatch. Work fast- this is where good music that gets you going is valuable. It's easier to do a second coat that try to get everything even the first time around- trust me, you'll have little missed spots no matter how well you think you covered everything. If roller is overloaded with paint, it will tend to slide along wall rather than roll- if this happens, roll onto a nearby area that doesn't have paint to take off some excess and roll over the "slide" again. Continue alternating edging and rolling until finished with first coat.
9. Let dry-
if you are going to do second coat soon or you just needed a break- wrap brushes and roller with plastic wrap to prevent drying out. Cover roller pan (and edging container) with plastic wrap.
10. Repeat process on 2nd (and sometimes 3rd) coat. I repainted this wall after sorting and organizing my boys' dressers-- it depends on the paint you used when you can recoat.
When finished-
*if you are just done for the day- place wrapped brushes and roller in freezer to further extend dry time. Let thaw about 1/2 hour before starting next painting session. Pour excess paint back into can. Toss roller pan liner once dry. (Replace with new one next session)
*if you are done with painting. It's clean up time- pour excess paint back into can. Let remains dry in roller pan liner and then toss out (not worth cleaning.) Use plastic wrap to pull out roller cover- discard (again not worth time, effort, water necessary to clean) Clean off ends of roller handle- sometimes on next paint job this may bleed into new color. Clean brush (since you bought a quality one) with mild detergent and warm water. Let dry horizontally (or with bristles lower so ferrule doesn't rust) Clean out (or toss) edging container. Toss paint pad but clean off handle and guard for next time. Fold up tarp and save if paper/plastic combo.
*Once paint is dry. Replace furniture, switch plate covers, etc. Enjoy your brand new room!!!
Bathroom painting--- a little trick I figured out after getting that smaller napped skinny roller-- instead of removing toilet tank to paint behind it- encase toilet tank with a garbage bag (taping down at bottom)- the skinny roller usually fits between wall and tank- way less hassle than draining tank and removing!!!! Can't recommend this technique ENOUGH. LOL
Painting new drywall- prime first! It will seal the drywall and joint compound- making paint go on more even (and you'll use less paint.) Have the paint store tint the primer to match the paint color you plan on using- it can save you additional coats needed to achieve the end results.
Changing from one extreme to the other- like very light walls to dark saturated color- prime first (with primer tinted to match new wall color) primer gives better coverage and seals everything- so you'll have to do less coats of paint.
I think that's it--- my brain is fried... I need a shower (worked out today-- yeah, me thinks I am putting on some weight because I haven't been exercising consistently.)